During the Warring States period in ancient China, King Wuling of Zhao (Zhao Yong) emerged as a visionary leader with a keen strategic mind. He was willing to embrace change, guided by the wisdom of the ancients: “What is flawed must be changed, while what is good should be preserved.” Instead of blindly following tradition, he sought to learn from foreign strengths and eliminate domestic weaknesses. His court included capable and virtuous ministers such as Lou Huan, Fei Yi, and Prince Cheng, whom he trusted and relied upon.
In 307 B.C., King Wuling voiced his concerns to Lou Huan:
“Our Zhao state is surrounded by powerful enemies — Yan to the north, Donghu to the east, Linhu and Loufan to the west, and Qin, Han, and Zhongshan pressing in from other directions. If we do not strive for strength, we risk being encircled, attacked, or even destroyed. The old saying warns us to ‘stay vigilant in times of peace,’ but given our precarious situation, we must instead ‘seek transformation in times of danger and fight for survival.’ Many changes are needed, but I propose we start with our clothing, which will naturally transform our way of war. What do you think?”
Reforming clothing to improve mobility
Lou Huan asked: “How do you intend to change our clothing?”
King Wuling replied: “Our traditional Zhao attire has excessively long sleeves, loose waists, wide collars, and oversized hems. Such robes are impractical — not only for battle, but even for daily tasks.”
Lou Huan added: “And they waste a lot of fabric!”
King Wuling nodded. “The extra fabric is a minor concern. The real issue is our mindset. These cumbersome robes make movement awkward, encourage slow and unsteady walking, and dampen our sense of urgency. If an entire nation dresses like this, how can we expect to become strong and agile? I propose we adopt the attire of the nomadic Hu people — short-sleeved tunics, leather belts, and boots for soldiers, while commoners can wear cloth shoes. This change will improve mobility, efficiency, and, most importantly, readiness for battle. Once dressed this way, even the most leisurely person will find it difficult to move sluggishly.”
Lou Huan was impressed. “If we adopt their clothing, we can also learn their combat techniques.”
King Wuling agreed. “Exactly. With the new attire, we can train in mounted archery like the Hu people. Traditionally, our military relies on chariots drawn by horses, but chariots are far less maneuverable than cavalry. We should adopt horseback warfare, which is more flexible and effective.”
Lou Huan supported the plan and helped spread the idea among the people.
Overcoming resistance to change
Once the decision was made, King Wuling announced the reform in court. Unsurprisingly, most officials opposed the idea, clinging to tradition. However, the king remained steadfast. To set an example, he personally wore Hu-style clothing.
The following day, King Wuling, along with Lou Huan and Fei Yi, appeared in short-sleeved tunics before the court. One of the most vigorous opponents was Prince Cheng, the king’s uncle, who refused to accept the change. However, through persistent reasoning and persuasion, the king eventually convinced him. When the officials saw that even Prince Cheng adopted the new attire, they had no choice but to follow suit.
Soon after, King Wuling issued an official decree mandating the new clothing. At first, the people found it odd, but as they experienced its practicality, Hu-style attire quickly became popular across the kingdom, regardless of social class.
A military revolution leads to national strength
Following the successful clothing reform, King Wuling personally oversaw military training, teaching his soldiers the Hu people’s mounted archery techniques. In less than a year, Zhao’s cavalry became a formidable force.
By 306 B.C., King Wuling led his newly trained cavalry in a series of campaigns, swiftly conquering Zhongshan, Donghu, and neighboring tribes. He then forged alliances with Qin, Han, Chu, and Qi, further strengthening Zhao’s position.
By 300 B.C. — seven years after the reforms — Zhao had greatly expanded its territory, incorporating Linhu, Loufan, and Zhongshan. Its influence extended northward to Yan, Dai, and Yanmen and westward to Yunzhong and Jiuyuan. The once vulnerable Zhao state had transformed into a powerful kingdom, thriving under its leader’s bold vision.
Through strategic reforms and an unwavering commitment to change, King Wuling of Zhao turned a crisis into an opportunity, leaving a lasting legacy of strength and innovation.
Translated by Joseph Wu
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