Chinese Cultural History: Showing Prosperity Through Long Fingernails

Empress Dowager Cixi with long fingernails.
During the Qing period (1644-1912), the long nail fashion peaked under Empress Dowager Cixi. She covered the eight-inch nails on her ring and pinky fingers with gem-studded, eye-catching nail protectors. (Image: via Public Domain)

Would you believe that a poor farmer founded the most influential dynasty in Chinese history? The Ming Dynasty was founded by Emperor Hongwu, a commoner who became a rebel leader and led an uprising. This era is one of the three golden ages in history, and the economy was hugely improved. 

Aside from the improvements in the economy, the Ming Dynasty had a vibrant culture. During this time, all forms of art were at their peak. This era also produced classical novels and medicinal books that became a vital contribution to the field of literature.

Cotton weaving, silk weaving, printing, embroidery, and other crafts were developed too, and artists were granted more creative freedom. Fashion also bloomed during this era. The rich developed a style to make them stand out among commoners. This article will discuss the custom of growing long fingernails and its significance during this era. 

The ultimate symbol of wealth

The Chinese began to grow long fingernails to distinguish themselves from manual laborers during the Warring States Period (475-221 B.C.). But it wasn’t until the Ming dynasty that long nails and nail guards were commonly accepted as symbols of wealth. Long nail wearers need assistance from servants for bathing, dressing, and feeding since this might cause injury. The longer the nails, the harder it is to move.

They also came up with the idea of painting their nails with dyes around the same time. Red is the most popular color, with natural ingredients like orchids and rose petals. They also decorated their long fingernails with stones and sparkles to show prosperity and invented nail art. The Chinese people’s vibrant imagination and passion for social display are limitless.

Because they were seen as being highly valuable in this period, long fingernails needed to be protected at all costs. Upper-class ladies used nail guards, also known as hu zhi, or 'finger covering,' as ornaments and protection.
Because they were seen as being highly valuable in this period, long fingernails needed to be protected at all costs. Upper-class ladies used nail guards, also known as hu zhi, or ‘finger covering,’ as ornaments and protection. (Image: via Public Domain)

What are the nail guards?

Because they were seen as being highly valuable in this period, long fingernails needed to be protected at all costs. Upper-class ladies used nail guards, also known as hu zhi, or “finger covering,” as ornaments and protection.

These bent, talon-like items, often crafted from metal, shells, and even jade, were adorned with various patterns and motifs. Peonies, which stand for prosperity, were a standard selection. Women of the imperial court used these nail guards mostly on their ring or pinky fingers to demonstrate their high rank.

Skilled artisans spend years mastering the art of making nail guards. Depending on who made it, the design of the nail protectors was meticulously handled through different techniques such as carving, painting, and inlaying, resulting in a one-of-a-kind accessory.

Taking care of long fingernails

During the Qing period (1644-1912), the long nail fashion peaked under Empress Dowager Cixi. She covered the eight-inch nails on her ring and pinky fingers with gem-studded, eye-catching nail protectors. All concubines are therefore implored of this custom, and they, too, need to decorate their fingernails.

The royals had an imperial nail team; their job was to ensure the royals’ nails were well taken care of. This job was risky but generously rewarded, as long fingernails were crucial to show one’s status in this period.

A variety of clippers, nippers, tweezers, buffers, brushes made of fox fur, and French-imported nail paint were provided for each member of the imperial nail team. No one could agree on what Cixi’s preferred shade was. Some stated she was experimental with her choices and found purple her favorite color, while others claimed she was insistent about wearing only silver.

Long fingernails were not just a mere fashion accessory in ancient China. There are numerous myths about nails since they were once considered extremely valuable.
Long fingernails were not just a mere fashion accessory in ancient China. There are numerous myths about nails since they were once considered extremely valuable. (Image: via Public Domain)

Long fingernails in Chinese culture

Long fingernails were not just a mere fashion accessory in ancient China. There are numerous myths about nails since they were once considered extremely valuable. 

According to the ancient calendar, having one’s nails cut on particular days of the year was thought to be lucky. Nails were frequently cut and buried with the person who passed away as a spiritual sacrifice to one’s ancestors in the afterlife. Offering the clippings of someone’s long fingernails during this time was considered a sign of love.

Additionally, nail protectors were decorated with various cultural and symbolic designs. The dragon is a potent symbol in Chinese culture and is frequently shown as a sign of power and luck. Flowers, birds, and animals are other typical themes associated with success and wealth. Red is connected to fortune and happiness, and gold with riches and abundance, so these colors were also commonly painted on nails.

Chinese traditions in Western society

The Ming Dynasty was marked by remarkable inventions, culture, and fashion. The fashion of this period provides an intriguing window into the lives of its people through its use of bold patterns and elaborate stitching.

Today, the fashion that this period created is starting to reemerge, making its way to the worldwide market through the help of social media and celebrities. Many Western designers are also looking for inspiration from Ming Dynasty fashion, including patterns of these traditional styles in their collections.

Even though much has been lost to the time, the Ming Era’s fashion heritage continues to endure as a symbol of the once-vibrant Asian society. This proves that cultural heritage will always be relevant no matter how long time passes.

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