In a quiet corner of Danlin Village in Pingtung County, southern Taiwan, a sea of deep red sways gently beneath the sun. It’s not just any crop — it’s djulis, or red quinoa, an ancient grain once central to the Paiwan people’s way of life. At the heart of this vibrant revival is Kao Hua-de, a determined young Paiwan farmer who returned home eight years ago with little more than a handful of seeds and a passion for the soil. Today, he’s one of Taiwan’s leading producers, having transformed five small plots of farmland into a thriving agricultural enterprise that’s reshaping indigenous farming and bringing a nearly forgotten crop back to life.
From construction work to cultivating tradition
“I never expected this to become my full-time job,” Kao says with a laugh. “At first, it was just a side project.” While working construction jobs away from home, he came across research highlighting the nutritional benefits of red quinoa — nicknamed the “ruby of grains” for its rich color and health profile. High in protein, fiber, and antioxidants, it piqued his interest at just the right time — his parents had recently retired and returned to farming. Together, they planted their first crop on family land.
The turning point came when Taiwanese food giant I-Mei reached out to partner directly with indigenous farmers. Encouraged by his wife, Kao took a chance and answered the call. That single decision would change the course of his life.
Growing is just the beginning — processing is the real challenge
“Growing red quinoa isn’t the hard part — it’s everything that comes after,” Kao explains. Red quinoa retains moisture easily and spoils quickly in Taiwan’s humid climate, making drying and storage especially tricky. Traditional sun-drying methods weren’t reliable, so Kao invested in a small mechanical dryer to stabilize quality and shelf life. Over time, he added sorting and threshing machines, building a processing system capable of handling an ever-growing harvest.
“If it’s not properly dried, it can develop aflatoxins — which are highly toxic,” he warns. While fermentation still plays a role in traditional Paiwan uses of the grain, modern food safety standards demand precision and care.
Cold weather helps, but typhoons remain a constant threat
Red quinoa thrives in cooler weather, with the ideal growing season running from November to March. But in 2024, Kao had to adapt when three typhoons struck in quick succession, forcing him to condense his usual staggered planting schedule into a single, exhausting push in December.
“I’d planned to plant in stages to spread out the workload,” he says. “But the storms left us no choice — we had to do it all at once.” Fortunately, the crop is resilient to frost and favors cold conditions, so this year’s harvest is expected to hit a new record: 20 to 25 metric tons.
From family fields to national recognition
What started with one small plot has now expanded to five hectares. “I’ve reached the point where I even ask other farmers to grow for me,” Kao says. His partnerships now extend beyond I-Mei, reaching biotech companies that extract anthocyanins — powerful antioxidants — from the grain for use in health supplements and research.
“I try to understand each customer’s needs — whether they want extracts, health foods, or other uses — so I can grow with purpose,” he explains. This customer-driven approach ensures his crops aren’t just abundant, but valuable.
The biggest barrier for new farmers: Equipment
Kao is candid about the difficulties facing young people who want to enter agriculture. “Anyone can grow red quinoa,” he says, “but without a dryer, you won’t get far.” That’s why he advises aspiring farmers to first line up reliable buyers before investing in equipment.
Now head of the local farmer production and marketing team, Kao has stepped into a leadership role once held by village elders. “The older generation is aging. I didn’t want to see this organization disappear,” he says.
The true reward lies in family and heritage
When asked about what’s changed the most, Kao’s voice softens. “Honestly, the best part is farming side-by-side with my parents every day.” After years of working away from home, he now cherishes the simple joy of daily life — talking and laughing together in the fields. One of his proudest moments? Taking a photo with his twin daughters in a field of ripe red quinoa. “That moment meant everything to me,” he says.
A vision rooted in tradition — and the future
Kao is deeply committed to cultivating Taiwan’s native red quinoa strain, especially the all-red variety prized for its high anthocyanin content. His dreams reach beyond food — into beauty products, medicine, and even cancer research.
“This year, a biotech firm approached me about red quinoa’s potential for anti-cancer products,” he shares. For Kao, it’s a sign that this ancient grain still has untapped potential.
While the journey has been full of risks, setbacks, and long hours, Kao says he wouldn’t have it any other way. What began in a quiet village has grown into a story of passion, perseverance, and cultural renewal.
As the golden-red fields glisten beneath the March sun, they tell a story not just of harvest — but of one man’s commitment to his roots, and a future sown from the strength of tradition.
Translated article
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