Chikan Tower (Chikan Lou 赤崁樓) is celebrated as one of Taiwan’s most captivating historical landmarks. Located in the vibrant West Central District of Tainan City, it was initially called Fort Provintia (普羅民遮城), a name derived from the Dutch phrase meaning “eternal fort.” In the early years of Qing rule, before the Taijiang River silted up, the tide would reach the front of Chikan Tower. During this period, “Sunset in Chikan Lou” was known as one of the eight famous scenes in Taiwan.
Today, what we commonly refer to as Chikan Tower encompasses the Haishen Temple (Ocean God Temple 海神廟) and the Wenchang Pavilion (文昌閣). This site attracts numerous tourists and stands as a significant symbol of Tainan’s rich cultural heritage.
History of Chikan Tower
Built in 1653 during the Dutch colonial period (1624-1662), the structure served as an administrative and military hub for the Dutch East India Company. The tower had different names in the past. The Han people called the fort Hong Mao Lou (Red Hairs’ Tower 紅毛樓) or Fan Tzu Lou (Barbarian’s Tower 番仔樓). After the Dutch were expelled by Koxinga in 1662, the tower was renamed Chikan Tower and repurposed by the Qing Dynasty, blending Chinese architectural elements with the existing Dutch design.
In the 1800s, five temples were constructed atop the remains of Fort Provintia: Daishi Temple (大士殿), Haishen Temple, Fenghu Library (蓬壺書院), Wenchang Temple, and Wuzi Temple (五子祠). Later, during the Japanese Era, these temples underwent conversion into student dormitories and an army hospital.
In 1935, the Japanese government designed the structure as an important monument. In 1942, the Japanese renovated the building again, and only the Haishen Temple and Wenchang Pavilion remained. After Taiwan was returned to the Republic of China (Taiwan) in 1945, the government converted the Tower into a historical museum.
The beauty of Chikan Tower
The site, featuring prominent structures of Haishen Temple (海神廟) and Wenchang Pavilion (文昌閣), showcases meticulously preserved architecture that underscores the craftsmanship of both Dutch and Chinese periods. The site is characterized by classic red tiles, red brick walls, wooden beams, and intricate carvings, and offers a vivid testament to its historical richness.
Surrounded by serene gardens adorned with stone carvings, beautifully maintained koi ponds with artificial waterfalls, and inscribed steles, Chikan Tower provides visitors with a peaceful environment to contemplate the area’s historical significance. With its layered history and well-maintained artifacts, Chikan Tower serves as a gateway to Taiwan’s colonial heritage and its transformation into a vibrant cultural center.
Bixi-carrying Imperial Steles (御贔屭碑) at Chikan Tower
In front of Chikan Tower stand nine remarkable Bixi-shaped imperial monuments. Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty bestowed them as a tribute to the valiant efforts of Shaanxi-Gansu Governor-General Fu Kang-an (福康安) in quelling the Lin Shuangwen Rebellion (林爽文事件) in 1786.
According to Chinese mythology, Bixi is one of the nine sons of the Dragon King, who transformed into a turtle because of its fondness for carrying heavy objects. Standing an impressive 3.1 meters tall and 1.4 meters wide, these monuments are meticulously carved from Kinmen granite, commonly known as “Mochi Stone.” There were 10 Bixi-shaped steles originally, but one was lost during transportation to Tainan.
Additionally, near the stairs leading up to the Tower, there is a stone horse with broken legs in the middle of about 20 small steles. Legend has it that the horse’s legs were forcibly broken because it would transform into a monster at night and harass the local people.
The statue of Lord Kuixing at Chikan Tower
Architecturally, Haishen Temple showcases traditional Chinese temple design with elaborate roof ornaments, vibrant motifs, and intricate wood carvings that exemplify the craftsmanship of its era. Within its tranquil interior, visitors encounter a serene atmosphere centered around a statue of Lord Kuixing (魁星爺), revered for his role in overseeing literature and examinations.
Originally housed in the Wenchang Pavilion, the statue of Lord Kuixing has been temporarily moved to Haishen Temple due to the ongoing restoration of the pavilion. Contrary to the stereotypical expectation of a benign countenance associated with figures overseeing education, Lord Kuixing is depicted with a strikingly unconventional appearance, which is believed to promote greater concentration among students and facilitate exam success. As a gesture of faith, blessed Kuixing 2B pencils are available nearby for prospective examinees to bring to their exam rooms, a practice thought to increase their chances of passing.
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